Hibernation is an adaptaion of wild animals which allows them to avoid having to deal with adverse climatic conditions.
As the days begin to get shorter and cooler preparation for hibernation begins. Tortoises will begin to decrease their food intake and become more sluggish. Hibernation can begin as early as mid-September or as late as mid-December and will end as early as mid-February to mid-May.
If natural burrows are provided, it is important to make sure they remain dry. Captive tortoises often dig burrows which are not properly protected from flooding. An unused dog house, shed or garage with dry bedding is usually adequate. A doggie door can be installed to provide an exit for a tortoise that awakens during unseasonably warm weather. Once the tortoises are in deep hibernation I have even put them in a cardboard box with newspapers or an open plastic tub with bedding. If you use this method you should check on them regularly during hibernation to make sure they are alright. The bedding should be changed if soiled. It is not uncommon for wild rats to attack a hibernating tortoise.
Tortoises which are ill or show signs of illness should not be allowed to hibernate. A tortoise does not require the hibernation period to remain healthy. As hibernation ensues, the body temperature of the tortoise drops and their immune system becomes less capable of fighting illness. Captive hatchlings should not be allowed to hibernate for their first 3 to 4 years.
Upon awakening from hibernation your tortoise should be offered food and water. I have found it good to provide a shallow dish for soaking in as well as drinking water. Once you tortoise is fully awake it will become an eating machine. I have found that they tend to eat their way from hibernation to hibernation.
Tortoises are especially susceptible to respiratory illnesses. Runny or bubbly nose, loss of appetite and gasping are symptoms of pneumonia. More tortoises die from pneumonia than from any other cause. It can be cured if treatment is begun immediately. A veterinarian experienced in treating turtles turtles and tortoises should be consulted immediately to begin antibiotics injections. For swollen eyes, wounds and other injuries require that you contact a veterinarian immediately. Sick or injured tortoises must be brought in the house and kept away from flies.
Worms are sometimes a problem, but more often with imported tortoises. Symptoms such as loss of weight and lack of energy for no apparent reason are an indication. If worms are suspected, consult a veterinarian.
A wide variety of bacterial infections occur. Often, multiple orgrans are involved. Liver and/or Kidney diseas is common because of the septic nature of tortoise disease and the filtering action of these two orgrans. Chronic hepatitis and chronic kidney disease (the latter resulting in elevated levels of uric acid in the blood and gout) are routinely seen. Infections of the heart are also commonely seen.
The condition is a result of either a traumatic injury to the mouth/oral cavity and its lining or secondary systemic (body-wise) disease. This condition should be treated locally (topically) as well as systemically to prevent internal absecssation. Deformation of beak and jaw may occur, necessitating periodic corrective trimming.
Malnutrition is widespread among captive desert tortoises, with especially devastating consequences to hatchlings. Inadequate mineral intake (a diet of lettuce and salad items only) results in an unhealthy soft shell and malformations of the same. Calcium and mineral supplements should be used regulalry.
Traumatic injuries to the shell caused by automobiles and lawn mowers are common, especially in the Spring when tortoises come out of hibernation. Caution should be used when dogs are allowed access to desert toirtoises and their immediate environment, as dogs can cause serious injury.
Approximate ages of young desert tortoises can be estimated by their size and rate of growth, although the high protein diests frequently fed to captive tortoises can result in abnormal overgrowth and development. Counting scute rings is meaningless. Plastron differentitation usually occurs at 10-15 years of age and maturity is reached at 25-30 years of age. Once a desert tortoise reaches maturity it is almost impossible to determine its age. The life span of desert tortoises is thought to exceed 130-150 years.
It is important to make your yard escape proof before your tortoise arrives. Make sure that the yard you plan to keep your toitoise in is fenced never tether your toitroise. If you have board or chain fencing it is important that you sink lumber or wire several feet below ground to prevent tunneling out. Tortoises have been known to attempt to tunnel underneath a block wall.
If the tortoise can see through to the other side it is going to try to get to the otherside. This is where the old addage "the grass is always greener on the otherside" comes into play. This can lead to constant pacing, frustration and even an attempt at climbing the fence. A permanent, continuous 18-24 inch high runner that obstructs the view should relieve the problem.
Also, make sure that there are no gaps in the fences or under gates. Tortoises are amazing escape artists. After having had my two tortoises in my parents backyard with 4 other tortoises for over 4 years, one finally found its way out and has now been lost.
Under no circumstances should a captive tortoise be released into the wild. Studies have demonstrated a 100% mortality of such tortoises.